The last three months have been spent mostly on working on the French guide. The whole of November was spent driving around the south of France, checking out routes, and taking lots of photos. This may sound like fun, but in fact could there be anything worse than walking into the crag each day, with ton of camera gear and a laptop and spending the whole day just looking at the routes when you’re there on your own and can’t climb them! Still, I’m sure there are worse places to be.

A very wet Orpierre

Actually the first two weeks were better as I was climbing with Audrey, though the weather was not great. Starting at Orpierre where it was so wet the crags were almost black, we checked out Sisteron, though didn’t climb there, instead we went to Volx and had two days there. It doesn’t matter how much it’s been raining, it’s always dry at Volx! After that we went to Buoux and the sun came out. We did some great climbs, I think my favourite was Le Rut on Excaliber, a brilliant way to the top of the crag in six pitches up to 7a, I took my camera and got some shots. We also had a day at the far end of the crag, where we just ticked everything. My best effort was to finally tick No Man’s Land, I’d been on it years ago and just got pumped silly, this time I got it – what a brilliant route.

>> Audrey on Le Rut, Buoux

It was a shame to leave Buoux, our next stop was Claret, where we spent a couple of days in the sun. Audrey returned on the TGV, and I hit the road to get some crag shots. I visited Seynes first – I wish I could have been climbing as it was in perfect condition depsite the earlier rain. I got the crag shots from the road, I had hoped a track opposite would give a view of the whole thing, but there were too many trees to get a viewpoint – a common problem. After Seynes I went up to the Gorge du Tarn, where it was pretty cold. It was of course stunningly beautiful and I soon realised that I would need to get to the other side of the gorge to take my crag shots. I found a path and followed it for what seemed like forever, until I could get a perfect view of the crags, but by then it was too dark. I marked the spots on the train with twigs with the idea of returning early the next morning, but the next morning it was cloudy! Getting good crag shots is a pretty big job sometimes! I quite the Tarn with a plan to retun in the spring when the sun is higher above the horizon and I’ll have more time to get the shots I need.

Some crags in the Gorge de la Jonte. I fancy that crack on the right…

Next, I drove down the valley to the Gorge de la Jonte. Another beautiful series of quite large crags. I bought the guidebook (another €20 – I’ve spent more money on French guidebooks than I have on French diesel) and tried to get more crag shots, though I reckon it will take a fair bit of hiking, and again I’ll go back in the spring when the shadows of the opposite side of the gorge aren’t making life difficult. From the Jonte I went straight to a place called Thaurac that Dave Jones’ Europe guide gives two stars to. I wasn’t too impressed as there was a busy main road below the crag ane the river looked like more fun. From Thaurac I headed over to Russan. I’d been here once before with Tim Glasby and Steve McClure some years ago. This time I was just taking photos. I had hoped to cross the river and get the best vantage point, however the other side of the rive was a tangle of vegetation, no paths that I could find, and to cap it all, the army were conducting exercises at the time. The next day I bush-whacked my way to the rive from the crag and found the idea of crossing the river to be quite ludicrous. I took some shots from the wings, which are good but not quite as good as I wanted, so in a bit of a huff I got in the van and went looking for a Decathlon in which to get a boat. I couldn’t find any Decathlons, which was odd as when I don’t need one they seem to be everywher, so drove to Buis-les-Barronies to visit Ollie. I’d had enough of van camping – all the campsites were closed now so I hadn’t had a shower in over a week. I checked into Ollie’s gite, and spent the remaining few days visiting the local crags and checking out the lines on my topos.

Russan and the river that will be overcome… next time.

Plans for the next couple of months involve rebolting a crag from my past – Rams Tor on Gower with bolts from the SWMC bolt fund, I might even get some help. In January I’m going to be going sailing in the Carribean – and I’m hoping I don’t get too seasick. In February I’m going to be hitting the road and after a week or two of ice climbing, it will be back onto the rock to finish this guidebook before Easter.

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