Books, Bolts, Plans and Flooring
I can’t believe it’s been nearly four months since I last posted an update here. My last trip to France researching the Rockfax guidebook I’m producing and writing is close to 90% complete now. I met up with most of the Rockfax team in Mallorca in April, so it was good to show everyone the progress, and to see progress on others’ project such as Mark Glaister’s South West and South Wales books in progress - both of which look pretty fabulous.
>> Photo: Me climbing in Mallorca back in May, the shot was taken for the updated Rockfax guidebook to the area. This route was about 7a, only the bolts were all pretty well rusted which made it feel more like an E5! Photo by Mark Glaister.
Much of the summer has been spent so far coaching up in the Peak District, I’ve has some brilliant days out on the rock with clients, many of whom have put in some big efforts to move up a grade or two then been gracious enough to offer me some of the credit! When I’ve not been coaching in the Peak, I’ve been working though some quite arduous DIY jobs – such as replacing a floor. These jobs have given me back muscles upon back muscles but I think I may find my finger strength rather lacking next time I go sport climbing!
On the subject of sport climbing, I’m going to be heading down to France in a week to finish off this guidebook. I’ll be there for a few weeks, so if you’re about then do drop me a note!
Before the summer ends I’m hoping to finish off a couple of new routes on Rams Tor – I cleaned a couple of lines, but have yet to bolt them. The last time I was there I was all kitted up on my ropes at the top of the line, ready to go over the edge, when I realised that I’d forgotten my drill bit. As it happened I had to spend hours cleaning loose rock from it anyway, so bolts can wait. At least it wasn’t as bad as walking for three hours to get to the top of Afternoon sector in Kalymnos with 120m of rope, drill, bolts, etc. only to realise I’d forgotten my harness. I can testify that 100m abseils in a 10mm dyneema sling harness is not much fun. On the subject of Kalymnos, I’m planning on being back out there in October, where I’ll be offering 1:1 coaching and maybe bolting a few last great lines – I’m hoping there will be a few still left!