Archive for the ‘News’ Category

The New Stanage Guide

Saturday, June 9th, 2007

It arrived at last, and has been very well received. It is good to see my years of research come to fruition; Nial has done a grand job with the book, fresh, up-to-date, anecdotal stories a-plenty, plus inspirational pictures, just the ticket really. Stanage finally has the guide it really deserves.
A slight surprise is the lack of new routes since the 2002 guide, I think we must have pretty much squeezed the place dry working on that one.

Negatives: almost (almost) too few to mention,

  • I am not a fan of the front cover, it doesn’t encapsulate the Stanage Experience the way a guidebook cover should.
  • The bouldering circuits, I will hold judgment on these, a very brief dip in found the layout and the information confusing, maybe that is my old brain. I’ll be interested to see the environmental impact in a couple of years on the more isolated areas too.

I was pleased to see that despite being the villain (in some eyes anyway) of the Stanage Saga, my contribution to the cliffs superb repertoire (over 100 new routes) hasn’t been ignored. I nipped out on Tuesday to do a new Direct Finish to Fern Crack HVS 5a that we explored (sounds better then top-roped) at the weekend - so it is out of date already!

The Sheffield launch was a convivial (and bloody hot) do, stories were swapped, beer quaffed and curry troughed. The pub was bulging with faces old and new, including Ron Townsend (first new route on Stanage back in the 1940s!) Dave Gregory (who has been involved with Peak guidebooks for 50+ years) and Malc Baxter who’s superb drawings have graced generations of guidebooks.
I think it is fair to say a good time was had by all.

One Big Step for Mankind

Wednesday, June 6th, 2007

An e-mail from Lofoten guide Thorbjorn Enevold brings worrying news from the far north -

“Latest news about the goat, most important. The landing platform on the Lillehorn, where you normally land, (if you have not climbed down), has fallen down this winter. Now the leap is a true jump, with a much smaller place to land. The climb itself, up from the shoulder are also more difficult now. And last, but not least, the traverse on the 1910 Route has also changed.
The jump has completely changed. We will not do the jump with normal tourists anymore.”

There were those of us who though the original leap was too wide for safety and sanity so now it must be really wild! The initial shot shows me on the ‘Big Horn” last year, it is the smaller right-hand one that has changed - sad news!

In Deep Water

Tuesday, June 5th, 2007

Mike Robertson’s superb looking Deep Water is about ready so it is back to ClearPoint, the printers we have used for a few years now, down in Nottingham. It is getting to be a regular habit nowadays, but its great to have the printers close enough for us to go and check the books before the presses actually begin to roll. At less than an hour to get down there we feel it is time well spent.
After a thorough check that all the corrections have been done and no last-minute errors have crept in, Alan signs off the sheets and its all systems go. The half million pound machine starts to roll and the book appears in all its glory (well as big confusing sheets actually).
Its should be in the shops in a few weeks.
We bid farewell, but should be headed back in just over a month for the Pokketz printing.