A blog challenge!
From JIMBO’s blog (link on main blog page):
I have been continuing on my regime to return as a fully functioning climber, back at the grades that I was once achieving some years ago. I have been reading around and from sources such as Training for Climbing and from my own profession it is clear that target setting is the first stage to realising your goals. However, to coin a teaching term (possibly borrowed from American corporate bullsh*t) they need to be SMART. Specific, Measurable, Attainable, Realistic and Time-bound. For example; I will do 1 one-armed pull up by Easter with my left and right arms. This hits all the criteria for me from this model, being specific in the exercise that I will perform (could be a route or a grade), measurable in that I must do 1 on each arm, it is attainable as I have done them before, realistic in that I am not far off it now and the time frame is long enough to achieve it and time bound in that I must do it by Easter. Having looked at Fiend’s blog it is clear that some of his targets fall short in one or more of these ideas and may lead to many left unfulfilled.
Would I be right in guessing this is Jimbo Kimber, beefy Portland guru from a few years back??
I’m somewhat entertained that a serious climber read my blog and thought enough to mention it (although a comment on my blog would have been useful). He may or may not have a point about my goals - although I do think my goals are in a different genre to some peoples - and since I quite like an online climbing discussion challenge, I’ll try to justify my goals in that context:
1. Climb the remaining routes E2-4 in the Lleyn section of North Wales Rock.
5. Climb at a few of the inspiring places that I didn’t manage to visit in 2007, specifically: Baggy Point, Nesscliffe, mid-Wales, Pembroke, and a bit of grit.
These two are more specific goals and do fit into the SMART criteria
S - Yes, specific places and specific routes (I have lists, but little desire to post them here).
M - Yes, whether I visit those places and do those routes.
A - Yes, subject to weather and partners.
R - Yes, all of the are accessible and routes are realistic targets.
T - Yes, have made them goals for this year in particular (although Lleyn would be up to the next bird ban). I can’t have specific deadlines set because it depends on: weather, opportunity, people to climb with, bird bans, and other factors.
2. Go on a climbing holiday to Scandinavian granite and/or German/Czech sandstone.
6. Climb more in Scotland.
7. Go on a climbing trip to Ireland if weather allows.
These three are all general destinations are the SMART criteria is not applicable to them. As above they are subject to weather, opportunity, etc etc, but more specifically to having the right people to go with. I will try to find the right people to go with, and to be able to go at the right times, but these trips are too external-factor-dependent to be more “SMART”.
3. Join with more climbing and bouldering trips abroad.
4. Climb more with my friends, old and new, and join in their climbing plans.
These two are climbing….scene? I guess….desires, and again the SMART criteria is not applicable to them. They simply depend on what other people are doing when, who is available, who wants me along. I’ve spent a couple of years being focused on my own specific desires, to good effect, now I am happier to join in with other peoples’ plans, in the knowledge that there’s bound to be something I’ll want to climb and enjoy doing.
8. Push myself more in bouldering and deep water soloing in different venues.
This one, perhaps is a bone of contention - it is performance / challenge / progression desire, and as such could be considered SMART suitable. But…
S - not really, no particular problems, no particular routes, nor locations.
M - not really (although a vague hint to boulder the next grade up).
A - yes definitely. I’m sure I can climb a bit harder.
R - yes definitely, ditto.
T - this year??
Maybe this should be SMART?? Maybe I should be saying: Boulder V-whatever on grit by April and onsight 3 E-whatevers at Portland between July and October.
The thing is, it boils down to my initial impression: I have a different genre of goals. Although a few are specific routes and specific challenges, most of them are exploratory venue-based goals: Get away with some mates to somewhere new and find inspiring stuff to do there (these might well be unfulfilled but that’s the nature of climbing trips!!). And the progression goals?? Well, I’ve spent the last decade focusing on progression and the last two years succeeding in it. I’ll always want to progress but at the moment I’m happy to do so in a “see how it goes” way. The point of that is not about being vague, it’s about being relaxed and being confident in my groundwork of climbing that I can tackle what challenges I feel like without having to be quite so obsessed over Specific (etc etc) details. And - it’s worth noting - I still train for general challenges, I still push myself in what’s relevant, work what I need to and work my weaknesses, but again I do that in a “looser” way. It doesn’t mean I’m pulling any less hard though!!
Finally…
Last weekend I did my hardest graded boulder problem ever. I hadn’t had it as a specific goal, I hadn’t used it as a measurement, I didn’t know for sure if it was attainable or realistic, and I set no time-limits on it. I’d just seen the line a couple of years ago, it inspired me, I thought I might be able to do it, and I did (it was piss, took a few goes and I could have possibly flashed it if I’d used the best starting hand-hold). Was a great problem BTW.
February 4th, 2008 at 9:55 pm
Hi Fiend, yes it is me from yester year; wow! a serious climber? beefy? Portland guru? - thanks for that! Didn’t mean to annoy anyone or make a challenge - it was just the first example of some targets that didn’t meet the SMART system that I found. Doesn’t mean you or anyone has to follow it, but it may help some people to achieve more. There have been lots of blogs with the New Year sentiment of achieving new things and being the best year ever. But from experience it’s the same every year and most people make little progress. I thought I’d apply business/education mentality to a sporting context to see if it works. I’ll let you know (so far it is doing the trick) if it works out in the end. SMART targets can apply to anything but if you choose to use them or not is up to you. In the past I’ve made endless target tick lists and never managed more then a third of it, so I’m hoping a new tack will help me. I’m also addng to it the sacrifice idea to aid in achieving my goals. Glad to see you’re doing ok with your system and I hope it continues. Good luck… watch out for my next blog instalment!
February 5th, 2008 at 4:23 pm
Thanks for the comment. No worries, it was an interesting aspect of “goals” for me to consider, and although initially there was a faint smidgeon of defensiveness, it’s got me thinking a bit more about goals and progress - which is a good thing :).
February 13th, 2008 at 1:07 pm
I’ve never actually used it myself, but from what I can see the SMART criteria is designed to help you achieve your goals, and know when you’ve achieved them, and it doesn’t have to make them boring or elaborate. Sure, adding a ’smart’ element makes your goals more ‘real’ and makes you think ’shit, this is going to take some effort’, but that’s kind of the point. The specific and measurable don’t have to be about grades.
So even though your goals might be in a different ‘genre’, they’re still goals, and by the sheer fact of having them means you want to achieve them. Maybe making them smarter would avoid procrastination (that’s not a dig by the way) when trying to achieve them, as that often happens when things are vague? If they’re more Specific etc., it’s easier to be black and white about them.
Not saying this is what I believe, it was just a thought.
February 15th, 2008 at 10:01 pm
Thanks for the comment ms nut. I appreciate what you’re saying, about making these goals firmer and thus striving for more decisive plans to achieve them. I will take that on board and can maybe do that to some extent (although I am liking feeling less goal-obssessed!). Though, I do think that since some factors are out of my control, they can’t be fully smartified.
March 23rd, 2008 at 7:08 pm
Hmmm. You may have a point.
Goals 3. and 4. are proving more elusive than I thought, when friends don’t seem as encouraging to have me involved as I thought. Thus, as you imply, I probably have to be more pro-active than I planned.