Comments for Fiend's Blog http://blog.rockfax.com/fiend Just another ROCKFAX weblog Mon, 12 May 2008 14:42:40 +0000 http://wordpress.org/?v=wordpress-mu-1.2.1 Comment on Font again! by Fiend http://blog.rockfax.com/fiend/2008/04/28/font-again/#comment-99 Fiend Thu, 01 May 2008 10:40:48 +0000 http://blog.rockfax.com/fiend/2008/04/28/font-again/#comment-99 I realise my reply was a bit tart ;). But I wouldn't have posted my original entry if I was going to back down graciously ;). Funnily enough I found climbing in Font felt very natural the first time and indeed subsequent times. Despite warnings of how super-technical it was meant to be, I found it fine, a generally perfect combination of friction and holds. Apart from some slabs maybe. I do concede - grudgingly of course - that my recent experiences might be slightly exaggerated by warm conditions (but the UK slab ROUTES I mentioned were done in fairly warm weather too...). I agree Honourary Caley is not worth it's recent upgrading, I did it before then. I realise my reply was a bit tart ;). But I wouldn’t have posted my original entry if I was going to back down graciously ;).

Funnily enough I found climbing in Font felt very natural the first time and indeed subsequent times. Despite warnings of how super-technical it was meant to be, I found it fine, a generally perfect combination of friction and holds. Apart from some slabs maybe. I do concede - grudgingly of course - that my recent experiences might be slightly exaggerated by warm conditions (but the UK slab ROUTES I mentioned were done in fairly warm weather too…).

I agree Honourary Caley is not worth it’s recent upgrading, I did it before then.

]]> Comment on Font again! by JIMBO http://blog.rockfax.com/fiend/2008/04/28/font-again/#comment-92 JIMBO Tue, 29 Apr 2008 19:58:11 +0000 http://blog.rockfax.com/fiend/2008/04/28/font-again/#comment-92 Some very valid observations - but is it a case of doing well on the medium you know and finding less familiar rock harder because of the subtle differences in its design? I used to find Fb 7a really hard and a bit of a stuggle, but now I find (despite being fatter and weaker than before) I find it easier to do them quickly or indeed flash them because I have more familiarity and experience with the style and area. I'm sure with more time there you would find this to be the case. Having been 2 to 3 times a year for the last 10+ years with trips of 1 week or longer at a time I have found this to be the case for me at least. Plus Honourary Caley is also 'not very hard' and over graded - not sure if I've been on the other examples. Some very valid observations - but is it a case of doing well on the medium you know and finding less familiar rock harder because of the subtle differences in its design? I used to find Fb 7a really hard and a bit of a stuggle, but now I find (despite being fatter and weaker than before) I find it easier to do them quickly or indeed flash them because I have more familiarity and experience with the style and area. I’m sure with more time there you would find this to be the case. Having been 2 to 3 times a year for the last 10+ years with trips of 1 week or longer at a time I have found this to be the case for me at least. Plus Honourary Caley is also ‘not very hard’ and over graded - not sure if I’ve been on the other examples.

]]> Comment on Font again! by Fiend http://blog.rockfax.com/fiend/2008/04/28/font-again/#comment-91 Fiend Tue, 29 Apr 2008 10:40:09 +0000 http://blog.rockfax.com/fiend/2008/04/28/font-again/#comment-91 Perhaps it was donkey leg work that got me up Manson's Wall, What A Way To Spend Easter, Honourary Caley, Satin in 3 goes (first two attempts aborted due to fear rather than difficulty), onsights of some of the Count's Buttress slab routes, or doing several of my hardest trad leads on slabs... SF might be "not very hard" but V3 is not very hard either. It would, however, be more accurate. Perhaps it was donkey leg work that got me up Manson’s Wall, What A Way To Spend Easter, Honourary Caley, Satin in 3 goes (first two attempts aborted due to fear rather than difficulty), onsights of some of the Count’s Buttress slab routes, or doing several of my hardest trad leads on slabs…

SF might be “not very hard” but V3 is not very hard either. It would, however, be more accurate.

]]> Comment on Font again! by JIMBO http://blog.rockfax.com/fiend/2008/04/28/font-again/#comment-90 JIMBO Tue, 29 Apr 2008 10:07:19 +0000 http://blog.rockfax.com/fiend/2008/04/28/font-again/#comment-90 Intersting ideas - but, perhaps you do have donkey leg work and they really are Fb5. Science Friction as an example is not very hard and can be done sans les mains!! Intersting ideas - but, perhaps you do have donkey leg work and they really are Fb5. Science Friction as an example is not very hard and can be done sans les mains!!

]]> Comment on Impatient patient. by Andrew http://blog.rockfax.com/fiend/2008/04/15/impatient-patient/#comment-81 Andrew Tue, 15 Apr 2008 19:54:59 +0000 http://blog.rockfax.com/fiend/2008/04/15/impatient-patient/#comment-81 I know exactly what you mean about having no will power. I've lost count of the times I've come back from injury with the idea 'I won't climb anything hard' or 'I'm going to take it easy' and the seeing a line that I just can't NOT have a go at. Hope the arm gets better soon Andrew I know exactly what you mean about having no will power. I’ve lost count of the times I’ve come back from injury with the idea ‘I won’t climb anything hard’ or ‘I’m going to take it easy’ and the seeing a line that I just can’t NOT have a go at.

Hope the arm gets better soon

Andrew

]]> Comment on Font post-match analysis part one. by Fiend http://blog.rockfax.com/fiend/2008/03/31/font-post-match-analysis-part-one/#comment-77 Fiend Sat, 12 Apr 2008 13:29:08 +0000 http://blog.rockfax.com/fiend/2008/03/31/font-post-match-analysis-part-one/#comment-77 Cos in this case it's not necessarily easier, but it is crapper ;) Cos in this case it’s not necessarily easier, but it is crapper ;)

]]> Comment on Font post-match analysis part one. by andy hobson http://blog.rockfax.com/fiend/2008/03/31/font-post-match-analysis-part-one/#comment-75 andy hobson Mon, 07 Apr 2008 14:58:22 +0000 http://blog.rockfax.com/fiend/2008/03/31/font-post-match-analysis-part-one/#comment-75 "or a lot of slapping and lanking past the crux" - and what, pray tell, is wrong with lanking past cruxes? “or a lot of slapping and lanking past the crux” - and what, pray tell, is wrong with lanking past cruxes?

]]> Comment on A blog challenge! by Fiend http://blog.rockfax.com/fiend/2008/02/04/a-blog-challenge/#comment-56 Fiend Sun, 23 Mar 2008 19:08:00 +0000 http://blog.rockfax.com/fiend/2008/02/04/a-blog-challenge/#comment-56 Hmmm. You may have a point. Goals 3. and 4. are proving more elusive than I thought, when friends don't seem as encouraging to have me involved as I thought. Thus, as you imply, I probably have to be more pro-active than I planned. Hmmm. You may have a point.

Goals 3. and 4. are proving more elusive than I thought, when friends don’t seem as encouraging to have me involved as I thought. Thus, as you imply, I probably have to be more pro-active than I planned.

]]> Comment on On top of my game… by Fiend http://blog.rockfax.com/fiend/2008/02/26/on-top-of-my-game/#comment-55 Fiend Sun, 23 Mar 2008 19:04:25 +0000 http://blog.rockfax.com/fiend/2008/02/26/on-top-of-my-game/#comment-55 Well, I initially thought it was unusual because I thought it was a performance peak. Which, I've read and heard elsewhere, needs to be balanced out with clear rest periods and respite to allow that peak to continue (I entirely understand and trust that theory - within my plateau I've needed small periods of that myself, otherwise I get burnt out). Then, as I tried to explain in my blog, I realised that it probably wasn't a performance peak, but as you've understood, a plateau. Nevertheless, this particular plateau - if maintained - allows me to do so many great climbs that inspire me in so many places (as well as exploring other climbing genres I haven't pushed so hard with - bouldering, sport, DWS, redpointing), that I am quite happy with it. Well, I initially thought it was unusual because I thought it was a performance peak. Which, I’ve read and heard elsewhere, needs to be balanced out with clear rest periods and respite to allow that peak to continue (I entirely understand and trust that theory - within my plateau I’ve needed small periods of that myself, otherwise I get burnt out). Then, as I tried to explain in my blog, I realised that it probably wasn’t a performance peak, but as you’ve understood, a plateau. Nevertheless, this particular plateau - if maintained - allows me to do so many great climbs that inspire me in so many places (as well as exploring other climbing genres I haven’t pushed so hard with - bouldering, sport, DWS, redpointing), that I am quite happy with it.

]]> Comment on Injury time! by Fiend http://blog.rockfax.com/fiend/2008/03/17/injury-time/#comment-54 Fiend Sun, 23 Mar 2008 18:57:36 +0000 http://blog.rockfax.com/fiend/2008/03/17/injury-time/#comment-54 Cider nut: I wasn't really sure about the terms myself, but in the interests of information I looked them up: Acute: 3. (of disease) brief and severe (opposed to chronic). Or: Medicine Having a rapid onset and following a short but severe course: acute disease. Afflicted by a disease exhibiting a rapid onset followed by a short, severe course: acute patients. Chronic: 4. (of a disease) having long duration (opposed to acute). Or: Lasting for a long period of time or marked by frequent recurrence, as certain diseases: chronic colitis. ... It does seem likely, as you say, that an acute injury can be transformed into a chronic one. This one is currently acute due to the sudden onset, my previous shoulder injury was more chronic due to it building up over time. Point taken about avoiding aggravating - I am trying! I don't envy you with your chronic injuries, after having this second injury, I'm starting to understand how frustrating it must be. ......... Jimbo: Thanks for your wishes. Yes warming up, point taken. I went down the wall the other night, warmed up a lot better, and climbed harder problems with much less aggravation to the elbow (almost no pain during session). I also think for me, being careless is the main cause of reinjury, i.e. not taking enough care when it's healing or apparently healed. Note to self... Cider nut: I wasn’t really sure about the terms myself, but in the interests of information I looked them up:

Acute:

3. (of disease) brief and severe (opposed to chronic).

Or:

Medicine
Having a rapid onset and following a short but severe course: acute disease.
Afflicted by a disease exhibiting a rapid onset followed by a short, severe course: acute patients.

Chronic:

4. (of a disease) having long duration (opposed to acute).

Or:

Lasting for a long period of time or marked by frequent recurrence, as certain diseases: chronic colitis.

…

It does seem likely, as you say, that an acute injury can be transformed into a chronic one. This one is currently acute due to the sudden onset, my previous shoulder injury was more chronic due to it building up over time. Point taken about avoiding aggravating - I am trying! I don’t envy you with your chronic injuries, after having this second injury, I’m starting to understand how frustrating it must be.

………

Jimbo: Thanks for your wishes. Yes warming up, point taken. I went down the wall the other night, warmed up a lot better, and climbed harder problems with much less aggravation to the elbow (almost no pain during session). I also think for me, being careless is the main cause of reinjury, i.e. not taking enough care when it’s healing or apparently healed. Note to self…

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