Cold
It is cold! Almost like in Norway. The only difference is that it is dryer here. In Norway it rains or snows. It can happen here too of course, but only for one or two, sometimes three days. I live in Biar, and I am developing the climbing at a mountain called Fraile. Biar is a small town with 3-4000 people. It is an old town with a castle and an old church. I love this town! I have lived here for almost three years and here I will stay for the rest of my life. There are 2 areas in the Rockfax guide close to here. One is Penya Rubia and one is Reconco. They are only few minutes away. The area where I am bolting is much bigger and much better. Penya Rubia is shit. I have not been so active the last week, but I have started to develope a new sector called”Kraftwerk”. There will be 6-8 routes here. Clogged one of them today. 6c+ or 7a(Autobahn). Good line with seven bolts. Have also started on 2 more. About the same grade. On friday I go back to sector “la vida” with Gareth. I think the route right of the first route here(la vida 6b+)will be around 6b+/6c. I have a lot of projects on other sectors, but I do like my sherpa and my friend on Cho Oyu who did a new route on an eighthousander and was asked about how it was possible to do this route: ”A little monkey here and a little monkey there……”Well, life will be really good again when the temperature gets above 10 degrees. Wintertime is the time to do most of the work. In the spring I want to climb. It will be hard to start training again. I have climbed 8a for more than 20 years. To be honest I am really fed up with climbing. I want to do something else, like travelling to a place without any possibility for climbing(the north pole or an island far far away). But I am a climber and tomorrow I can get new motivation. Nobody knows.
