Sun, Lofoten and Doseth
Saturday, February 2nd, 2008What a fantastic winter! Sun almost every day. Have done 11 new routes the last two weeks. 5b,5b,6a,6a+,6a+,6b,6c+,6c+,7a,7a+ and 7b+. When I started to bolt routes in Biar I thought that 130 was a good number, but the problem is that I find new walls and new lines all the time. There will be at least 70 more, so I need another year before I take a rest. I see that the Lofoten guidebook is on the way. I have been there, and when you have good weather it is a fantastic place to go. The scenery and the climbing is absolutely top class. There is also good bouldering close to Henningsvaer(the best place to stay). Close to the island there is a peak called Stetind. It is the most beautiful mountain in Norway. I have twice done the easiest route, grade 3-4. Only 15-20 meters with climbing, the rest is walking/scrambling. In good weather you have a great wiew. In Lofoten you find some of the best climbing in Norway on own protection. Presten(the priest) is good, 400 meters, good protection all the way, and very good rock. I did the classic route, around 6b many years ago. Superb!!!The other area in Norway with the same quality is the area outside Stavanger. This area is bigger, with the 900 meter granite wall of Kjerag as the most interesting, together with the Dirdal wall . Pat Littlejohn did some hard big wall routes up to 7b+ in this area more than 20 years ago. On sight. Impressive! I have 2 first ascents at Kalle in Lofoten on own protection. In 97 I freeclimbed “ButterArms” 8a, an old aid route, and I also freeclimbed the 7a+ next to the classic “Doseth risset(crack)”. Hans Christian Doseth died on rapell after doing the first ascent of Trango Tower back in 84 with Finn Daelhi. At that time it was the hardest big wall route in the world. He was a great allround climber. The best of all time in Scandinavia. He has also done some hard ascents in the Troll wall. I was so lucky to climb with him on one occasion, at Dale outside Stavanger, a month before he went to Pakistan in 84. He was my hero, and I will never forget his huge personality. I remember I felt really small beside him.
