Archive for January, 2009

Rain stops play . . . indoors.

Tuesday, January 20th, 2009

The club have got a bit of a new thing going this year - the third weekend of every month is now going to be an informal meet (as opposed to all the other meets) at the club hut in Pant-y-Gyrdl. So, it being time for the first one, we looked at the weather forecast, groaned, and rocked up anyway.

We ended up in the slate quarries, the choice of venue being based entirely on how quickly we could retreat when the promised ‘orrible weather eventually arrived. It was cold. It was windy. It was miserable. Tiny crimps with numb fingers are really NOT my idea of fun, but on the plus side our various novices did learn quite a lot (including that finding out what to do at the top of a sport route is better done before leaving the ground, and that peeing into the wind is a bad idea).

I eventually retreated when I turned into a human kite, fluttering gaily at the end of the rope and cursing profusely. The rest of the club weren’t far behind, and by mid-afternoon we were all back at the hut for tea and buns.

What to do now? Too early to start drinking (even for us lot, usually described as being “a drinking club with a climbing problem”). The words “indoor wall” started being bandied about and suddenly we had a car-load of keen people sprinting through the rain into the wall.

Where, half an hour later, the incessent wind and rain caused part of the ceiling to fall in, forcing the closure of part of the building.

 We managed half a route on Sunday. The first pitch was fine, but I wouldn’t have been too surprised to find some fish living in the second. So we bailed and squelched away.

I think maybe this is the weather evening itself out after New Year?

 (Score so far:
Winter Routes: 1
Sport Routes (seconded): 4
Trad Routes (seconded): 0.5)

Statistics and lies

Wednesday, January 14th, 2009

I’m going to try a little bit of an experiment this year.

Inspired by this thread:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=336776&v=1#x4964124

 I’m going to try keeping a running total of routes over the year. So, so far:

Winter routes: 1

A cracking finish - and a cracking start

Monday, January 5th, 2009

New Year at the club hut, and what on earth was wrong with the weather??

North Wales, holiday period, it’s supposed to be pissing it down. It wasn’t. We had clear skies and sunshine. We had spectacular views. We even had climbable ice.

Day 1. Up Snowdon for my 200th geocache. Glorious view from the top, it seemed a waste to take one of the usual ways off so came down via Moel Cynghorion and Moel Eilio instead. Stopped on Moel Eilio to admire the sunset . . . it was well worth admiring!

Sunset from Moel Eilio

 Day 2: Moel Siabod and Carnedd Cribau, one geocache (couldn’t find the one on CC, I’ll be back), one cloud inversion, one glorious wander down a ridge gawping at the views to either side.

Cloud inversion from Moel Siabod

 Day 3: “Oi, Wingnut, you coming climbing?”

So we went and found a nice little outcrop just above Capel, and had a play. As you do. On the sunny side of the valley, so not *too* finger-freezing-off. Last lead of the year. Also seconded John up some ‘orribly thuggy overhang, ended up employing a bum jam at one point to stay attached to the rock ::o)

Now give it some grunt . . .

Stopped off at the RAC Boulders on the way back - Emma’d got a new bloddering mat for Christmas, it just had to be christened.

Day 3: Drove out to Anglesey and spent the day geocaching round Holyhead mountain, sea views, luvverly. Back for the traditional New Year piss-up in the Slaughtered Lamb, really struggled to stay awake long enough to make the traditional midnight group hug - I think the hills were catching up.

There's a geocache under which rock, exactly?

Day 4: New Year’s Day. Very slow and stiff getting out of bed. Rest day, gentle low-level amble and some more geocaches.

Day 5: “Oi, Wingnut, you coming climbing?” Tony, it turned out, had Aspirations. “You have got two axes, haven’t you? And decent crampons?” We wombled off up the Pass in search of climbable ice, couldn’t see any from the road, decided to wander up towards Sargent’s Gully. We weren’t sure if it would be in climbable nick, but it seemed worth the slog up the hill to find out. And yes, it was, more or less - quite a lot of water coming down under the ice, plus occasional slushy pools (one of which I managed to fall into, thus finishing the route with one boot full of slush), but the ice itself had reached that stage of plastic-y near-thaw that made tool placements feel very solid indeed. Tony got the bottom bit, I got the top bit, first lead of the year and it was on ice, woo yay. ::o)

Tony M in Sargent's Gully

Day 6: So, what shall I do today? Already been up Snowdon once this week, but have picked up a Travel Bug that needs to go to the top, sod it, it’s a nice day, let’s climb it again. Up, TB duly deposited in summit geocache, down via the Llanberis Path.

Snowdon View

Not been down the Llanberis path in daylight and nice weather (it’s one I use more as the easiest route off in darkness or pouring rain) for a very long time . . . wow, there really *are* some daft people about! To answer the inevitable questions (and why do they always ask me, do I look extra helpful or something):

  • No, you aren’t nearly at the top.
  • No, the cafe isn’t open. The cafe hasn’t finished being built yet.
  • No, you aren’t nearly at the top.
  • Yes, wearing proper boots does make you a lot more comfortable.
  • No, you aren’t nearly at the top, and if that’s your wife down there then she looks like she’s going to collapse if you make her walk much further. Still, at least she looks like she’d bounce well.
  • No, you aren’t nearly at the top, and given that it’s now 3pm and you aren’t even halfway yet I really hope you packed a torch.
  • Yes, this is Snowdon. Look, here it is on the map. Yes, it is a pretty map, and I’d suggest you buy one and learn to use it or the Mountain Rescue will say something *really* scathing when they have to come and get you.
  • For the last time . . . no, you are not nearly at the f*cking top!

Day 7: Ah, normality. Grey, drizzling, typical North Wales weather. Pack kit and head home via Rock Bottom (new walking boots) and model train shop (assorted geekery).

Day 8: Back to work, where I still don’t have a PC or anything to do. Hmph.

So, all in all - a great finish to 2008, and a great start to 2009!

::o)