The promised warm weather arrived and then promptly left again which came as a bit of a let down. Nevertheless I managed a day out and about with an American who is the brother-in law of a mate. I found it amazing that he was so fond of our crags especially since he had visited some of our less pristine gems. Not at all like the American who after a day at Gogarth was asked if they had rock like this in the US and he replied that they had absolutely masses but just didn’t bother climbing on it! I also had a good visit to the Lakes and was pleased to see that some of the crags are looking much cleaner than when I last saw them although I may need recalibrating after spending time down in mid Wales over the last few years (see photo of approach to Gist Ddu). A BMC SW meeting at Chudleigh was notable for the amount of food on offer and some very impressive stainless steel pegs on show that hopefully will go a long way to sorting out spots such as Long Quarry Point and The Sanctuary Wall in Torbay, which are now really in need of new fixed gear. I know that some advocate a no peg/fixed (not bolts) gear policy on our sea-cliffs but if this was put in place in Devon and N.Cornwall so much would be lost to many climbers and although many of the routes could be climbed without pegs etc, at much higher grades, how many would be headpoints or climbed after inspection from ab? Off to pack for Lofoten now so fingers crossed the weather is kind.

Waiting for the warm weather to arrive seemed to drag on and on but a couple of good days in April allowed a day with my old school days climbing mate Bruce and his family plus my nephew to enjoy a day a Sheeps Tor on Dartmoor. It was packed with groups but friendly enough although I don’t think that the SPA guidance on not hogging routes/crags was being adhered to.
A last minute call from the BMC saw me handing in evidence of historically unhindered access to Vixen Tor on Dartmoor to the authorities that are Devon County Council. I grabbed the chance of publicity and ended up on the BBC regional news and managed to link Vixen Tor with an ascent of Everest which was not bad for a 20 second spot! Fingers crossed this action works although I suspect it may be along time coming and might favour walkers with a footpath but no general access.
On the climbing front things have been a little faltering, the weather being a bit of a let down after Spain. Nevertheless I held my old friend Dave’s rope on a successful ascent of Tuppence at Ansteys Cove, had some great days in West Penwith and Portland on the crag and in the pub with my friends Lee, Guy, Coxy, Bernard and Jan and got some mileage in checking routes at Avon, The Dewerstone and Cornakey Cliff. Perhaps the highlight of my week has been repeating a route called Matchless on the Culm, a route that I first climbed nearly 30 years ago just after it was put up. Whilst there we also climbed the modern classic More than a Match which lived up to its name and was surprisingly clean. A good tip here is to walk in along the boulder beach from Stanbury Mouth which is pretty quick and pleasant.
Finally I am booked to head off to Lofoten in Norway with Alan James to try and sample the awesome looking climbs. Alan and I must be due some decent weather as our last meetings in Mallorca, Pembroke and at my wedding have been extremely wet!! (having said that we did grab some good sun in Cornwall last year).