Dundonnell August 2007
August 18: Eventually left home at about 11.30, latest departure ever, only to have to turn round after about 15 minutes then managed to take the long route to the Motorway, i.e. I got lost. Eventually I got on the A4, then on to the roads leading north. Crossed the border at about 6, another latest and then bombed it and arrived in Pitlochry, my overnight stop, at about 8.45. I checked in and decided to find somewhere to eat. This brought on the first grump of the week, could find no pub/hotel serving food at this outlandish hour, eventually went to an Indian takeaway for which I gave thanks.
August 19: Did not hang around in Pitlochry, was on the road north by about 8.30 (a bit more like it) and passed Dalnaspidal, Dave Pogson’s home at 9. Turned off but decided not to visit, a wee bit early still. This turned out to be a good decision. Stopped in Inverness for petrol and last minute shopping and then onward, reached Braemore Junction at about 12, and then started getting ready to get out on the hills. A rather lengthy process but got going at about 12.45 and headed round the northern shore of Loch a Bhraoin and then at the head of the Loch started the week’s first real climbing, reached the summit of A’ Chailleach and then on to Sgurr Breac, then down to the col and back to the car at about 8. Then on to Dundonnell and Badrallach, my home for the next week where I was camping. I eventually got the tent up, started cooking cracked open the beer and all felt well-no midges.
August 20:Eididh nan Clach Geala, Meall nan Ceapraichean. A slightly late(ish) start (10.20) due to unpromising looking weather. Just getting myself organised when the owner of a nearby house asked me if I was the electrician. Hmmm. Set off in unpromising weather but no rain, on a decent path, but I was too low, so had to scramble over a fence and then slog up the hillside through thick heather. Grump #2, caused by navigation error. Eventually I gained the ridge and on to the summit of Edidh nan Clach Geala at 2.20. Then on to the next summit of Meall nan Cepraichean which took 2 hours, very steep and rocky, and I reached the top in the cloud, first time this trip, which for some reason took me by surprise, then down via a good path to the car, in the rain, the prospect of a soggy camp site did not appeal, and I felt very depressed at the prospect. However I later found out that we could cook in the accommodation building on the camp site - the bothy - and everyone else was doing the same so quite a jolly evening followed.
August 21: Weather had still not improved in the morning so a very late start. Decided to head for the Fannichs, a range to the South to do two Munros which I had missed doing last visit.
I did not set off until about mid day (!) decided to head for Meall Gorm and An Coileachan, skirted round the base of Benn Liath Mor Fannich and then headed for Loch Li over some very rough heathery ground and then after the loch very steep slopes, reached the main ridge just before 5 and the first top Meall Gorm at 5pm. Then on to An Coileachan in clear weather, good views, at the summit at 6.10, then back to the bealach and the long trudge back to the car, which I reached at 8.40, and then a drive back in damp misty conditions. Another late cook but in dry(ish) but misty weather.
August 22/23: Up early. Was this the stunning day we had been promised for a few days? Not a promising start as mist was down but it could be sea fret. I got ready and left at about 8 a.m. for another drive through mist, but half way along it cleared with stunning views to the West, it had to be Fisherfield. While getting ready I overheard a conversation, one man was talking bout the difficulties of crossing the stream at Shenavall. He said that on one occasion it was a raging and a roaring. Typical gloomy Scotsman! I left Corrie Hallie at 8.45, and was across the river and at the base of first top at 11.30. A long trudge with a lunch break en route, plus one very rocky section meant I reached the summit at about 2.20. Then on to Sgurr Ban, Mullach Coir Mhic Fhearcair, and a long descent before the 4th top, Beinn Tarsuinn, which I reached at about 6. I then descended below a ridge leading from the summit, down a descent gully where I managed to get some water, and then descended to a very wet, and alas, low col. Then the long drag up to the next top, A’ Magaidhean, after going some time, I saw some deer on the summit ridge who seemed miles away. I eventually reached the summit at 9, with the light starting to fail. I then removed some of my sweaty clothes, dried them, and then put them back on again, not too uncomfortable. I descended carefully to the next bealach, taking the easiest angled slopes I could find. I was alarmed to see some very step crags below the summit of the next top and decided to bivouac at the base of crags. I rang the people I was staying with & told them I would not be back that night(!) and then settled down for the night. I dropped off almost instantly; I must have been really tired, woke up at about midnight, then slept until about 1 am. That was the end of my sleep, but had a great night, the stars were a wonderful sight, and also the moon was huge.
At about 4 the sky started to lighten, although it had never been totally dark, I could see the outline of the ridge I had come from quite clearly all through the night.
I explored the area and was relieved to see a path leading through the crags. I set off at 5.15 a.m. and was on the top (the last) at 5.45, to a fantastic sunrise. I left the summit at 6, and then started the long walk back to civilisation. I replenished my water supply, my thirst had been becoming serious and tried to ignore the fact that I hadn’t eaten since 9 the previous evening! After descending some very steep ground, I got on a stalkers path, then headed for the bothy at Shenavall. This involved crossing 2 very deep streams, boots off, and shoes on, with a bog in between the two for good measure, then I was attacked by some very sharp gorse on the river bank. This route certainly had everything! I was in the bothy at 10, which was empty but some people were clearly staying the night there, but not me! I left at about 10.15 and started the long trek to the road, on an appallingly boggy path, which was quite steep to start with, reducing my already slow pace to a crawl. I reached the junction with the main path after about 2 hours which I had last been on about 26 hours ago. I celebrated with my last remaining food, a sandwich from yesterday which I could not face before now. I passed a few people coming in the opposite direction, then after a toilet stop, finally got to the car, a sight I had been hallucinating about for some time. A quick change and on to the Dundonnell Hotel for lunch, my first meal for a long time.
N.B. The circuit of the 6 Fisherfield Munros took 15 hours, (10½ hrs to bivvy under Ruadh Stac Mor, then 4¾ hrs to Shenavall) plus the walk in & an additional 5¾ hours, an amazing expedition.
August 24: Felt surprisingly refreshed after a long sleep- a good morning so set off for my remaining 3 peaks in the area. I arrived at Inverlael at about 9.30, and had been walking for about 10 minutes when I was given a lift to the end of the track. Excellent. Started on the main route up the Glen, and headed for the col which was very windy and cold. Headed for Beinn Dearg which was in the cloud, and then followed the enormous wall, and then through a breach to the summit which I reached at about 2pm. Lunch, then a return to the col and then on to Cona Mheall, also in the cloud, up some rocky ground then round the cliffs at the lip of the corrie to the summit which proved to be the last one of the trip. Then back to the col again, third visit of the day! Then down the path I had come up, the cloud was now a long way down. I reached the end of the path and was about to enter the forest when I saw the man who had given me a lift up in the morning who very kindly gave me a lift down and I was back at the car at 6.45, and cooked in the light so a big bonus.
August 25: Looked out of the tent doors and decided it was not a Seana Bhraigh day, my last remaining Munro in the area. Decided a day away from the mountains would be a good idea, and hired a mountain bike and cycled to Scoraig up the coast, I was also attracted by the fact that they were holding a fair which meant FOOD! Arrived there and found it a bit too hippyish for my liking, so made the return journey after a short day. Packed up the tent, unfortunately wet, and headed South for Aviemore, via Aultguish for a meal & bought some postcards. Arrived in Aviemore to find motor cyclists everywhere. Managed to get moved out of a room which had 2 bikers in, and fortunately got a good night.
August 26: Left at a reasonable time headed down the A9 for Dalwhinnie, wrote and posted the postcards then called in at Dalnaspidal on Dave Pogson. No sign of Dave’s car outside 2 houses then went over to the Lodge, not looking like Dave’s place so back to the other houses, called on his neighbour who told me he had gone out. I was just walking back to the car when the man himself drove down to the house. Had an excellent cup of coffee and exchanged chat then headed south, an uneventful journey although long and was back home at 9.30pm. A good end to an excellent trip.